How to take a road trip without a car
The year is over, and I'm back in the City of Excessive Precipitation. It's how I got there that was the interesting part. Halfway through the semester I had this great idea: since I like travelling, more travelling would obviously be better. Like taking the train to Seattle, for instance. Everyone I talked to thought this was an incredibly stupid idea, even though it was cheaper than the plane by about a third. But when I told my best friend Carina, she immediately said it was the coolest idea in the universe, and that we should do it. So we made plans - I was gonna ride from DC, she would get on in Cleveland, and we'd head to Chicago and on to Seattle from there. Three days of fun in the train.
People still told us we were crazy, but if you had been on this train you would've shut up quick, cause it was the coolest thing that could ever happen to anybody. It was like a road trip without a car. It was like a cruise trip without a ship. And it was quite simply the cheapest way of travelling across the entire country.
The route starts in DC, right, and I hopped on at Union Station, with my bags about twenty pounds overweight. After some rearranging I got on. The seats are super comfy - coach on the train is first class on an airplane. Part of the plan was that I was going to save Carina a seat. But the conductor lady came up - she was a thinnish woman with straightened hair and a name tag that said "Beverly'. She yelled, "You better move your bag! People need to sit down! What're you doing, taking up all this room!"
"Someone's sitting here," I said. So she left. Two stops later, more people got on, and Beverly comes back up. She doesn't even say anything, she just glares at me, and I try to glare back as best as I could (she was pretty hard-core). Finally she was like, "I don't see another person."
"That's cause they haven't gotten on yet."
She snorted. "No-no-no-no-no. That is not how this works. You don't save seats for people! Get your bag up outta that seat." I didn't have to get it up because she had already gotten it for me.
The whole way to Cleveland, she glared at me every time she passed. "Beverly hates me," I told Carina (it wasn't enough that we were about to be on a train for days; we still had to call each other). I kind of despaired of getting her to understand how much Beverly hated me, though - I have been known to exaggerate. A raised eyebrow could make me say someone has it in for me.I took the chance to escape Beverly and went to explore the train. See, with the train, you can walk around as much as you feel like between cars. They have a lounge car which is made entirely of windows and has tables and stuff where you can hang out, and a dining car where you can spend twenty dollars at one go. And then you could go to the back of the train and stand at the window and watch the east coast melt away before your eyes.
It rained the entire way to Cleveland. Carina unfortunately had to get on at two-thirty in the morning, and then the train was delayed because this stupid freight train in front of us couldn't get up a hill. It was the Little Engine That Couldn't.
So finally we pull in to Cleveland at three or four and I'm all excited. I look out the lounge window and see my friend walking towards the last coach car with her bags and umbrella. I ran through all the cars, trying not to wake people up, and I get there and hug her to death, and then who appears but Beverly, wanting to seat Carina. She sees me - and by this time it's four in the morning so she's even pissier than usual - and she says, "THIS is your friend?"
I glanced at Carina. She didn't have horns or anything; I didn't think it was that much of a stretch that she and I would be friends. "Yeah," I said cautiously.
"You mean you were gonna save that seat all the way to Cleveland? Are you serious?"
"I mean...I was gonna try."
So I get a whole chewing-out from Beverly, but finally she let me come back to the last car and sit with my friend, which is good because we'd been planning this for months. "See?" I said to Carina once we were alone. "See?"
"She doesn't hate you personally, she's just a bitch."
But we got rid of her in Chicago, where we switched routes. Chicago was the best because we had a several-hour layover. On the plane, you dread those because it means you have to sit in the airport forever. But a train station is usually right in the middle of a city. We walked out, and the Sears Tower was right next to us. We walked down the street, and there was an Indian restaurant. So we went to Whole Foods and stocked up for the rest of the trip. We did really well with the food; we had enough to last us the whole way without having to go broke in the dining car even once. In fact, the other passengers loved us because we had a surplus of food and shared it. We had two loaves of bread, hummus, rice cakes, three different kinds of cheese, mango applesauce, Nutella, and a cornucopia of fruit. We stole plastic silverware from the counter and stopped at the Indian restaurant on the way back for some shahi paneer and garlic naan.Then we crossed the country. The sun set over the Mississipi in Wisconsin. We hung out in the lounge car and met people. The Amtrak website had gone on about how you meet awesome people on the train, but I think Carina and I were both hoping that we'd be able to keep to ourselves. We ended up meeting this really cool dude, though. His stage name is Mickey Western. He's this guitarist and all-around indie artist type. He has this really earnest voice and he's always going on about Kerouac and the other beat poets. We also met Blair, this Canadian dude who was a little weird.
Night on the train is kind of creepy because the train's going through the countryside and it's pitch black, and everyone around you is alseep, and because your perception is limited to the train car you get wigged out and can't tell whether the train is going backwards or forwards, or if it's even going at all.The next morning I woke up and we were in North Dakota. The landscape was grey and green-brown as far as the eye could see. It was kind of addictive to stare at, but it was also kind of a drain to travel through it for an entire day with no change. I loved it, though - there were all these swamps, and you could tell that the place would have looked awesome covered in snow.
We passed into Montana during the day, though you couldn't tell to look out the window. We figured it was time for food, so we went to the lounge car and spread out our bread and hummus.And this was the best time ever. Mickey came in with a friend and shared our food, and we played this surrealist writing game. Finally, finally, the mountains started looming up on the horizon. It was awesome, after so many hours of prairie. It got dark, and the train wended its way into the Rockies. There were deer and elk. Mickey kept going on about this bear he saw from the train one time. "It was a little guy!" he kept saying. "Just a cub, he was sitting all by himself on top of a hill. It was a little black bear, a real little guy. Maybe I'll see him again."
I was so psyched to be back in the mountains. It was all dark and mysterious and Wagner. Blair came by and sat down with us. As the sun set, the lounge car emptied out. "It's getting quiet now," said Mickey. "I could go get a guitar.""Sweet," we said. He went back to his coach car and came back carrying this tiny case. The neck was sized normally, but the body of the guitar was just barely bigger than the neck. It was a perfect travel guitar. Apparently he got it off ebay or something for thirty dollars. But anyway, he started playing these songs, and he was really good. He played songs that were perfect for travelling through the Rockies at night - songs that brought a tear to your eye because they made you feel like you were missing something even though you know you'd never know what it was you were missing. His style was kind of bluesy, kind of country, kind of folk, and kind of sixties in its lyrics. These other dudes from Seattle came and sat - two friends, you know, quiet guys who looked like Seahawks fans. One of them had used to write songs. "You're changing my life, man," he told Mickey, who just kind of smiled a hippie smile and played another song.
"It's like being six again," said Carina (her father used to play the banjo).I felt like Laura Ingalls in Little House on the Prairie (except less racist against Native folks) when Pa is playing his fiddle late into the night and everybody's eyes are shining and no one wants to go to sleep.
But finally it died down, and we watched more horror movies and went to sleep, and when I woke up in the morning we were in Wenatchee, and it smelled like Washington again.




